https://wiki.allhandsactive.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Skosman&feedformat=atomAll Hands Active Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T10:15:25ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.41.0https://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=61093D Printer2020-08-04T02:32:50Z<p>Skosman: /* Changing Filament */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
A slic3r config bundle for all various printers and materials is located here: https://github.com/allhandsactive/AHA-3DPrinters/blob/master/AHA-Slic3r_config_bundle.ini<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen, find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click on the print button. The printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and use wire cutters to make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube into the extruder and when its at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. It can print with both PLA and ABS. It has a SD card and a heated bed that can be controlled from the front panel . Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=61083D Printer2020-08-04T02:31:44Z<p>Skosman: /* Changing Filament */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
A slic3r config bundle for all various printers and materials is located here: https://github.com/allhandsactive/AHA-3DPrinters/blob/master/AHA-Slic3r_config_bundle.ini<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen, find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click on the print button. The printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters to make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube into the extruder and when its at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. It can print with both PLA and ABS. It has a SD card and a heated bed that can be controlled from the front panel . Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=61073D Printer2020-08-04T02:30:49Z<p>Skosman: /* Printing with Makerbot Replicator */ grammar people</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
A slic3r config bundle for all various printers and materials is located here: https://github.com/allhandsactive/AHA-3DPrinters/blob/master/AHA-Slic3r_config_bundle.ini<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen, find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click on the print button. The printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. It can print with both PLA and ABS. It has a SD card and a heated bed that can be controlled from the front panel . Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=61063D Printer2020-08-04T02:06:50Z<p>Skosman: /* Wanhao i3 (Prusa) */ grammar</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
A slic3r config bundle for all various printers and materials is located here: https://github.com/allhandsactive/AHA-3DPrinters/blob/master/AHA-Slic3r_config_bundle.ini<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. It can print with both PLA and ABS. It has a SD card and a heated bed that can be controlled from the front panel . Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5822Pliers2019-09-19T22:38:45Z<p>Skosman: Added a definition</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
Pliers are tools that are used to grasp objects. They can also be used to bend and crimp objects. There are numerous kinds of pliers such as:<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose<br />
<br />
They can be found in the "big noise room's" rolling tool chest.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5821Pliers2019-09-19T22:35:38Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose<br />
<br />
They can be found in the "big noise room's" rolling tool chest.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5820Pliers2019-09-19T22:34:04Z<p>Skosman: grammar</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers. They can be found in the "big noise room's" rolling tool chest.<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5819Pliers2019-09-19T22:33:18Z<p>Skosman: added the rolling tool chest</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers. They can be found in the rolling tool chest in the "big noise room".<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5818Pliers2019-09-19T22:32:09Z<p>Skosman: Added location of big noise room</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers. They can be found in the "big noise room".<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=58033D Printer2019-06-06T07:05:26Z<p>Skosman: Reorganized so that the functional printers are together</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=58023D Printer2019-06-06T06:59:14Z<p>Skosman: Grammar issues in the first paragraph</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator. AHA also had: A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=58013D Printer2019-06-06T06:57:42Z<p>Skosman: fixed error of makerbot replicator 2</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had the Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printer: Replicator . A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Staff_Coordinator&diff=5800Staff Coordinator2019-06-01T23:36:25Z<p>Skosman: Removed Brian who had stepped down</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br><br />
<br />
Awesome person responsible for this: _____ (operations@allhandsactive.org)<br />
<br />
The Staff Coordinator makes sure that we have an awesome group of people available to staff the shop Thursday and Saturday for public hours. The staff help with all aspects of the shop, but their primary goal is to provide a welcoming environment to anyone looking to make & create! <br />
<br />
<br />
Time estimate: 1 - 2 hours per week<br />
<br />
Some specific responsibilities include:<br />
* Making sure the staff is happy : )<br />
* Inspire staff to take charge / ownership in the shop<br />
* Help acquire new staff as needed (preferably a bit before!)<br />
<br />
A document about general needs for new, upcoming, and ongoing staff is [http://wiki.allhandsactive.com/Information_for_Staff viewable here]</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57183D Printer2018-09-14T04:29:29Z<p>Skosman: /* Printing with Makerbot Replicator */ grammar</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2. A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right).<br />
* On the front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add a model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57173D Printer2018-09-14T04:16:30Z<p>Skosman: /* File Types */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2. A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
==='''''STL'''''===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
==='''''GCODE'''''===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
==='''''S3G/X3G'''''===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57163D Printer2018-09-14T04:09:55Z<p>Skosman: i3 update</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2. A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 8/24/18:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*WanHao Duplicator i3 is fully functional<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Table_Saw&diff=5714Table Saw2018-09-07T20:56:24Z<p>Skosman: updated information</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics Tools]]<br />
We have an older table saw with various blades and sanding disks. It is currently working and an extension had been made while other additions are currently being made at this time.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57133D Printer2018-09-07T20:53:56Z<p>Skosman: deleted period</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2. A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57123D Printer2018-09-07T20:53:28Z<p>Skosman: Grammar and I deleted a duplicate word</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers: A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2. A RepRap, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57113D Printer2018-09-07T20:51:27Z<p>Skosman: Undo revision 5710 by Skosman (talk)</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=57103D Printer2018-09-07T20:50:48Z<p>Skosman: /* Creating a 3D Model */ grammer</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend:<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]<br />
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]<br />
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== Wanhao i3 (Prusa)==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. Get the latest Slic3r config bundle at https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters .<br />
<br />
The printer has been tuned and at low speeds does a really nice job with PLA. The current configuration can print parts with a layer thickness down to 100 microns. Increasing the print speed should be fine, but you will notice more waviness around corners and dimensional accuracy will suffer.<br />
<br />
The standard configs will need to be tweaked based on individual models. Supports are important and will need to be setup for each model as needed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 190-210. If there is a part of your print that isn't adhering to the bed, clean the bed with alcohol or windex. Try not to touch the bed.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240. PLA is recommended. <br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=All_Hands_Active_Wiki:Current_events&diff=5632All Hands Active Wiki:Current events2017-09-23T00:08:37Z<p>Skosman: Removed old and outdated info</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Category:Tools&diff=5631Category:Tools2017-09-23T00:07:10Z<p>Skosman: /* Safety (click for more info) */</p>
<hr />
<div>==[[Safety]] (click for more info)==<br />
* Some tools require a class / certification before we will let you use it. At the moment, this includes:<br />
** CNC Router<br />
** Laser Cutter<br />
** 3D Printers<br />
** Lathe<br />
* You are responsible for your actions. If you have to hesitate, please ask someone for help!<br />
<br /><br/><br />
<br />
[[Vinyl Cutter]]</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Things_To_Mention&diff=5613Things To Mention2017-07-28T03:49:22Z<p>Skosman: Added the AHA! Clean Table Storage Policy Revision 2, July 9 2017</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
==General Problems: July 9 2017==<br />
As of July 9 2017 the policy has changed, but we are still having the fo9llowing problems and they will be addressed as outlined below:<br />
*People don't put the space's stuff away<br />
** Make sure to have clear labels / sections for items<br />
** Commonly used / needed items should be easily seen and accessible, this will make it easier to put them away<br />
* People don't clean up<br />
** If the space is messy, it's harder to tell you've added to the mess. First and foremost: Make the space REALLY CLEAN.<br />
** Some people are '''just messy''', gentle prodding goes a long way.<br />
* People don't put their projects away<br />
<br><br />
Members have a locker Personal items stored in the space will be limited to the contents of one locker. If items are left out in the space they will be placed in the“Lost and Found” bin. If they are unclaimed after a reasonable period of time, they will be moved to the “Fair Game” bin.<br />
<br />
Items part of active projects that are staged for use that do not fit in a locker or may be damaged by being moved frequently will be granted a “Parking Pass”. A valid parking pass must have at least: <br />
1) the owner’s name, 2) an issue date, 3) an expected completion date, 4) the owner’s signature and 5) a board member’s signature. Should the items covered by the parking pass need to be moved without the owner present, consent to move the items must be obtained from the owner or a member of the board before the items are moved.<br />
* In general - <br />
**Non Members should not be leaving projects down here.<br />
** If a project '''must''' be left out, then a name, date, and contact information should be affixed to the project in some obvious fashion.<br />
** A project will require a "parking permit" after so many days it will be moved <br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://wiki.allhandsactive.org/12_Jul_2017_Board_Meeting_Agenda]] Board Meeting that discusses this<br />
<br />
[[https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3X18mIWyq5oUW5tenQ3ZmNHRjg/view]] AHA! Provisional Clean Table/Storage Policy Revision 2, July 9 2017</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Things_To_Mention&diff=5612Things To Mention2017-07-28T03:45:03Z<p>Skosman: new rules July 9 2017</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
==General Problems: July 9 2017==<br />
As of July 9 2017 the policy has changed, but we are still having the fo9llowing problems and they will be addressed as outlined below:<br />
*People don't put the space's stuff away<br />
** Make sure to have clear labels / sections for items<br />
** Commonly used / needed items should be easily seen and accessible, this will make it easier to put them away<br />
* People don't clean up<br />
** If the space is messy, it's harder to tell you've added to the mess. First and foremost: Make the space REALLY CLEAN.<br />
** Some people are '''just messy''', gentle prodding goes a long way.<br />
* People don't put their projects away<br />
<br><br />
Members have a locker Personal items stored in the space will be limited to the contents of one locker. If items are left out in the space they will be placed in the“Lost and Found” bin. If they are unclaimed after a reasonable period of time, they will be moved to the “Fair Game” bin.<br />
<br />
Items part of active projects that are staged for use that do not fit in a locker or may be damaged by being moved frequently will be granted a “Parking Pass”. A valid parking pass must have at least: <br />
1) the owner’s name, 2) an issue date, 3) an expected completion date, 4) the owner’s signature and 5) a board member’s signature. Should the items covered by the parking pass need to be moved without the owner present, consent to move the items must be obtained from the owner or a member of the board before the items are moved.<br />
* In general - <br />
**Non Members should not be leaving projects down here.<br />
** If a project '''must''' be left out, then a name, date, and contact information should be affixed to the project in some obvious fashion.<br />
** A project will require a "parking permit" after so many days it will be moved <br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://wiki.allhandsactive.org/12_Jul_2017_Board_Meeting_Agenda]] Board Meeting that discusses this</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Finding_Information&diff=5591Finding Information2017-07-27T23:13:13Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br><br />
<br />
A list of links for finding internal information about AHA and its members. For publicly facing information, see [[Publicity]]. For internal communication, see [[Communication]].<br />
<br />
;[[Wiki]]<br />
:This wiki. The best starting point to find out about anything at AHA is within our Google Drive Storage organized by areas AHA Directors/Officers are responsible for maintaining: [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bx1lMULI24OBakNmS2dPX2JrQ1U?ltmpl=drive]<br />
<br />
;[[Google Calendar]]<br />
: A listing of all AHA related events. [https://www.google.com/calendar/embed?src=allhandsactive%40gmail.com&ctz=America/Detroit]<br />
<br />
;[[AHA Members Forum (open to all)]]<br />
: Google Groups [https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/ahashop]<br />
<br />
;[[AHA Meetup page (open to all)]]<br />
: AHA Meetup Page https://www.meetup.com/AllHandsActive/</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Measuring&diff=5589Measuring2017-07-27T23:00:48Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Outdated}}<br />
{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
<br />
*Tape Measures<br />
*Rulers<br />
*Chalk Lines<br />
*6" Speed Square<br />
*12" Speed Square<br />
*3' T Square<br />
*4' T Square</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5588Pliers2017-07-27T22:34:49Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Stub}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
* Locking Pliers ( vise-grips ):These are pliers that can locked in a certain position. They come in many shapes and forms such as needle nose pliers. <br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Things_To_Mention&diff=5582Things To Mention2017-07-27T04:00:46Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
<br />
==General Problems==<br />
* People don't put the space's stuff away<br />
** Make sure to have clear labels / sections for items<br />
** Commonly used / needed items should be easily seen and accessible, this will make it easier to put them away<br />
* People don't clean up<br />
** If the space is messy, it's harder to tell you've added to the mess. First and foremost: Make the space REALLY CLEAN.<br />
** Some people are '''just messy''', gentle prodding goes a long way.<br />
* People don't put their projects away<br />
** Members have a locker and/or shelf space. Member projects can go there when they are not in use<br />
** In general - Non Members should not be leaving projects down here.<br />
** If a project '''must''' be left out, then a name, date, and contact information should be affixed to the project in some obvious fashion.<br />
** A project will require a "parking permit" after so many days it will be moved <br />
<br />
<br />
[[http://wiki.allhandsactive.org/12_Jul_2017_Board_Meeting_Agenda]] Board Meeting that discusses this</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Screw_Drivers&diff=5581Screw Drivers2017-07-27T03:40:51Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
They can be located in the large toolbox in the big room next to the CNC. The list includes:<br />
* Jewelers<br />
* Philips<br />
* Slotted<br />
* Small -> Large<br />
* Security Bits (~Medium Sized, not tiny)<br />
* Torx</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Pliers&diff=5580Pliers2017-07-27T03:38:06Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Hand Tools]]<br />
<br />
* Locking Pliers<br />
* Solid Joint Pliers<br />
* Slip Joint Pliers<br />
* Jewelry Pliers<br />
* Shear Cut<br />
* Stub Nose<br />
* Needle Nose</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Misc_Craft_Supplies&diff=5579Misc Craft Supplies2017-07-27T03:37:13Z<p>Skosman: removed annoying unhelpful stuff</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Craft Tools]]<br />
<br />
* Crayons/Makers/Pens<br />
* Sewing tools/Thread/String<br />
* Notions<br />
* Wire/Metal/Zip ties<br />
* Glue/Tap<br />
* Paper Foam<br />
* Paint brushes<br />
* Clay<br />
Etc...</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Misc_Craft_Supplies&diff=5578Misc Craft Supplies2017-07-27T03:34:23Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Outdated}}<br />
{{Stub}}<br />
{{Delete}}<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Craft Tools]]<br />
<br />
* Crayons/Makers/Pens<br />
* Sewing tools/Thread/String<br />
* Notions<br />
* Wire/Metal/Zip ties<br />
* Glue/Tap<br />
* Paper Foam<br />
* Paint brushes<br />
* Clay<br />
Etc...</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=Table_Saw&diff=5577Table Saw2017-07-27T03:28:56Z<p>Skosman: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics Tools]]<br />
<br />
<br />
We have an older table saw with various blades and sanding disks. It is currently working and an extension along with other additions are being made at this time.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55763D Printer2017-07-26T23:58:13Z<p>Skosman: /* Makerbot Replicator */ added picture</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
[[File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG|thumb|left|alt=The Makerbot Replicator .|The Makerbot ''[[Replicator 3D Printer]]''.]]<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=File:Makerbot_replicatior_3Dprinter_working.JPG&diff=5575File:Makerbot replicatior 3Dprinter working.JPG2017-07-26T23:47:38Z<p>Skosman: This is a picture of the MakerBot Replicator 3D Printer while in use</p>
<hr />
<div>This is a picture of the MakerBot Replicator 3D Printer while in use</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=File:Makerbot_3d_printer.JPG&diff=5574File:Makerbot 3d printer.JPG2017-07-26T23:43:07Z<p>Skosman: Picture of the Makerbot 3D Printer by SKosman</p>
<hr />
<div>Picture of the Makerbot 3D Printer by SKosman</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55733D Printer2017-07-26T23:33:27Z<p>Skosman: spelling</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two functional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Re-crimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, re-crimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot received<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings necessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a low-rider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your ReplicatorG machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initialization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initialization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrunk. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55723D Printer2017-07-26T23:29:42Z<p>Skosman: /* Changing Filament */ spelling</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celsius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55713D Printer2017-07-26T23:07:02Z<p>Skosman: /* Things this bot has: */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform] ''link not working''<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55703D Printer2017-07-26T23:05:26Z<p>Skosman: /* Things this bot has: */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html ] Mendel X and Y low rider Axis<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55693D Printer2017-07-26T23:04:15Z<p>Skosman: fixed Mendel Link</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*http://www.fr3dy.com/3d-model/mendel-inspired-x-and-y-carriage-lowrider_5181.html Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55683D Printer2017-07-26T23:01:19Z<p>Skosman: /* Things this bot has: */ update Marlin link</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://marlinfw.org/ Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55673D Printer2017-07-26T22:59:15Z<p>Skosman: /* Things this bot has: */ fixed link</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[https://www.makerbot.com/media-center/2010/09/30/new-nema-17-cork-gaskets-and-relay-board-mount-kits NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55663D Printer2017-07-26T22:55:53Z<p>Skosman: /* Things this bot has: */ update links</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 7/26/2017 - Still working! Lives with it's owner currently. Contact Tyler W. to borrow it or use for events.<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise ''link not working''<br />
]]<br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese?===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==i3 Prusa==<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55613D Printer2017-07-23T19:55:51Z<p>Skosman: 1st paragraph</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two fucntional printers. A Makerbot Industries Cupcake Replicator 2 and a WanHao i3. Previously, we had two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers: Replicator and Replication 2, a RepRap. a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Replicator and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 10/04/14!)===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55603D Printer2017-07-23T19:50:56Z<p>Skosman: /* Changing Filament */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Previously we were home to a Replicator, Replicator 2, and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 10/04/14!)===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer.<br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=File:3dprinterwanhaoi3.jpg&diff=5559File:3dprinterwanhaoi3.jpg2017-07-23T19:49:46Z<p>Skosman: The WanHao i3 3D printer. By S Kosman</p>
<hr />
<div>The WanHao i3 3D printer. By S Kosman</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55583D Printer2017-07-23T19:43:03Z<p>Skosman: /* WanHao i3 */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Previously we were home to a Replicator, Replicator 2, and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 10/04/14!)===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(done!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*(done by Alex?) Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*(in progress!) Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*(in progress!) Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*(in progress!) Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the version of Marlin 1.1 and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
[[File:Example.jpg]]== WanHao i3 ==<br />
<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosmanhttps://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&diff=55483D Printer2017-06-29T05:29:48Z<p>Skosman: /* S3G/X3G */ added Makerbot's software</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Tools]]<br />
[[Category:Electronics]]<br />
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]<br />
All Hands Active has two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers, a Kossel Clear, and a Rostock variant called WayneStock. Previously we were home to a Replicator, Replicator 2, and a RepRap. <br />
<br />
The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state. Aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. <br />
<br />
As of 1/27/17:<br />
*Creamcheese is functional.<br />
*Replicator is functional via the Right nozzle.<br />
*Blackbottom is waiting on a new XY Chasis.<br />
*Kossel Clear is being rebuilt<br />
*Waynestock is waiting on more time.<br />
<br />
==Creating a 3D Model==<br />
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.<br />
<br />
*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]<br />
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]<br />
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]<br />
*Blender - [http://blender.org]<br />
*Rhyno<br />
<br />
3D model database<br />
* Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine] <br />
* Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]<br />
<br />
==File Types==<br />
===STL===<br />
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.<br />
====How to fix an STL====<br />
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.<br />
<br />
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.<br />
<br />
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:<br />
*MeshMixer<br />
*MeshLab<br />
*NetFabb Basic<br />
*blender<br />
<br />
===GCODE===<br />
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object<br />
===S3G/X3G===<br />
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software<br />
<br />
==Jargon==<br />
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.<br />
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it. <br />
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has<br />
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object<br />
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer<br />
* Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.<br />
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file<br />
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg<br />
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer<br />
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software<br />
<br />
==Makerbot Replicator==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 1/27/2017 - Working, right nozzle is fine. Left hasn't been thoroughly tested.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Heated glass bed<br />
*Stronger Arms supporting the platform<br />
*Custom enclosure<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Makerbot Replicator? ===<br />
* Get Makerbot Desktop software from Makerbot.com<br />
<br />
===Printing with Makerbot Replicator===<br />
* Turn printer on (switch on back lower right)<br />
* On front screen find the preheat option and start it for the nozzle you want to use and the bed.<br />
* When it's up to temp, feed in the plastic you want (you may have to reverse out an existing plastic).<br />
* Load Makerbot Replicator desktop on your or the 3D printer computer.<br />
* Add model (.stl file) to build plate in software.<br />
* Click the print button. Printer will heat and begin to print.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
* Preheat nozzle to change by using interface on front of printer. (220 for ABS!, Less for PLA)<br />
* Pick change filament<br />
* Printer will back out filament (press the spring tab on extruder to release it)<br />
* Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch.<br />
* Press load filament <br />
* Feed new filament through tube and into top of printer by pressing spring clip on desired extruder.<br />
* When color has fully changed to new filament, stop the extruder process.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Alex W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
<br />
==Creamcheese Cupcake==<br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 11/26/2014 - Working. Acrylic available for cutting new Z stage, but not critical.<br />
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods. <br />
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.<br />
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!<br />
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!<br />
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!<br />
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder<br />
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms. <br />
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)<br />
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added<br />
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped. <br />
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted<br />
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped. <br />
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced<br />
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.<br />
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend<br />
<br />
===This bots history===<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder. <br />
<br />
DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!<br />
<br />
*6/10 - Bot recieved<br />
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end<br />
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.<br />
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder<br />
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu<br />
*10/12 - Accelerated<br />
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run<br />
*11/13 - New hot end.<br />
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise <br />
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]<br />
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]<br />
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]<br />
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]<br />
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!<br />
*.35MM nozzle.<br />
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 10/04/14!)===<br />
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r<br />
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear<br />
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following<br />
** Baudrate: 115200<br />
** Builtemp_abs: 110 <br />
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0<br />
** temperature_abs: 215<br />
** xy_feedrate: 3000<br />
** z_feedrate: 555<br />
<br />
===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===<br />
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.<br />
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]<br />
<br />
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]<br />
<br />
* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)<br />
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese<br />
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.<br />
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.<br />
* Press export GCode.<br />
* Save the result.<br />
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.<br />
* Load your newly generated GCode file<br />
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.<br />
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.<br />
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center<br />
* Press print.<br />
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.<br />
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.<br />
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.<br />
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.<br />
<br />
Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.<br />
<br />
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===<br />
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:<br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
<br />
The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured. <br />
<br />
If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:<br />
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]<br />
<br />
Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
<br />
==BlackBottom Cupcake==<br />
===This bots history===<br />
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.<br />
<br />
This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!<br />
<br />
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack. <br />
<br />
At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!<br />
<br />
It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder<br />
*Mk6 Stepstruder<br />
*Acrylic Platform<br />
*.40MM Nozzle<br />
*Sailfish Firmware.<br />
<br />
===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)<br />
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/<br />
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]<br />
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here: <br />
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14<br />
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory<br />
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory. <br />
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)<br />
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)<br />
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\<br />
<br />
===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)<br />
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:<br />
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)<br />
<br />
* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r<br />
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r<br />
* Pick build to file<br />
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.<br />
* Put the SD card in the bot<br />
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.<br />
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.<br />
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)<br />
* Close control panel and pick build from file.<br />
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.<br />
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!<br />
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.<br />
<br />
To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.<br />
<br />
===Issues?=== (this section depricated)<br />
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!<br />
<br />
(**** begin initilization commands ****)<br />
M73 P0 (enable build progress)<br />
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)<br />
M104 S220 T0<br />
M109 S110 T0<br />
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)<br />
(**** end initilization commands ****)<br />
<br />
(**** begin final commands ****)<br />
M73 P100 (end build progress )<br />
M104 S0<br />
G91<br />
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0<br />
G90<br />
(**** end final commands ****)<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Josh W.<br />
*Michael Sh.<br />
<br />
==Waynestock==<br />
<br />
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it! <br />
<br />
===This Bot's History===<br />
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print. <br />
<br />
===Want to help?===<br />
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!<br />
<br />
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame<br />
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.<br />
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino<br />
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.<br />
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.<br />
*(in progress!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.<br />
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame<br />
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.<br />
*Redesign belt tensioner mount<br />
*Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!<br />
*Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.<br />
*Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already<br />
*Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.<br />
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here<br />
*Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the modern version of Sailfish and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.<br />
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.<br />
<br />
== Kossel == <br />
<br />
===Current Status===<br />
# 6/2015 - Fully functional prints in ABS. Does not work with TPE (flexible) filament. <br />
# 2/2015 - Alex White has been working on a mount for the Kysan geared stepper. Currently working, and appears to be printing fine.<br />
# 11/2014 - Bot received thanks to Ox and Larry. Hot end melted off, waiting for replacement.<br />
<br />
===Things this bot has:===<br />
<br />
*Delta printer<br />
*Bowden Extruder<br />
*400 Watt AC Heated bed (Reaches printing temperature in 90 seconds)<br />
*Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 - Marlin firmware<br />
*Endstops, automatic bed leveling<br />
* Mk VB J Head extruder with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament<br />
* ~200x200x200mm print volume<br />
<br />
===Slic3r Settings===<br />
<br />
Up to date settings for Slic3r can be found here for all current printers. These settings give good results for most prints, but need to be tweaked for individual projects. It is highly recommended to read through the Slic3r blog and manual to learn what each setting does and how they can help make nice prints.<br />
<br />
[https://github.com/nristow/AHA-3DPrinters AHA printers Github repository]<br />
<br />
===Changing Filament===<br />
<br />
Heat the hot end to 220 Celcius. Unclip the paper clip from the extruder and pull the filament completely out of the tube. To replace, push filament up to hot end and clip extruder lever shut.<br />
<br />
== WanHao i3 ==<br />
<br />
This is a Prusa i3 clone. Can print both PLA and ABS. It has a heated bed and can be controlled from the front panel and a sd card. Pronterface works at 115200 baud, and slicer configs are available for several plastics. More testing needs to be done to get better prints from this printer. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for PLA ===<br />
<br />
PLA will stick fine to the bare bed, but not to glue stick. If there is any glue stick on the bed, wipe it off with alcohol or windex before printing. Heat bed to 60C max. Filament to 180-190. <br />
<br />
=== Setup for ABS ===<br />
<br />
Gluestick works great for keeping ABS stuck to the bed. Blue tape can also be used. Heat bed to ~110C. Filament to 235-240.<br />
<br />
=== Changing Filaments ===<br />
<br />
Heat the nozzle to 190-230C depending on loaded filament. Depress lever on top of the nozzle, next to where the filament is loaded, and pull the filament out. <br />
<br />
To replace, depress the lever next to where the filament feeds and push the new filament down the hole until you see it extruding. The filament needs to through an internal tube to reach the extruder head. If it misses, the filament will start winding around the stepper gear. It may take several tries to thread the filament correctly. Cut the end of the filament on an angle to help guide it into the tube.<br />
<br />
If changing filament types (eg, from ABS to PLA), the bed height will need to be adjusted to compensate. This can be done fairly quickly by using pronterface to fly the head to the 4 corners of the bed. Make sure that the head is 0.0 - 0.2mm above the limit switch. Then move the head 200mm to reach each corner. Adjust the screw under the head at each corner until the head is just above the bed. <br />
<br />
When starting a print, if you notice that the filament isn't sticking, make sure that the bed is prepared correctly as noted above. Then raise the bed so that it is closer to the extruder head.<br />
<br />
===Contact===<br />
<br />
Questions? Want to help us build or document it? <br />
<br />
*Tyler W.<br />
*Nick R.<br />
*Nate Y.<br />
*Alex W.</div>Skosman