Penguicon Badge 2013
UPDATED FOR 2015! Hey guys, thanks for visiting us at Penguicon! Please feel welcome to add your findings on the Penguicon Solder Badge to this wiki page.
Here are some of the current details about the badge:
- Schematic: http://movax.org/pcon/Penguicon_Badge_Schematics_0.1.PDF
- Code: http://movax.org/pcon/pcon.zip
The rework is captured in the schematic, but briefly:
- No load R15
- No load Q1
- Place Schottky diode (same as D10) where Q1 is as seen on schematic
The code is very brief and hacked up from the original source!
TODO:
- USB Bootloader! -- Nate Y./LogiK is currently looking into adapting Micronucleus (https://github.com/micronucleus/micronucleus/) to achieve this goal. (Update 2015: no luck figuring this out, and not much time to devote to it. Please get in contact on my user page if you can help!)
- Clean-up and remove un-used code from the source (will eventually obviate this by porting to an Arduino program loaded via the bootloader)
Questions? #allhandsactive on FreeNode
Usage Instructions
- Flip the switch on the battery pack to the "on" position to activate your badge. Be patient -- due to some coding silliness, it does take a few seconds to start up.
- After you see lights moving back and forth, you can use the pushbutton on the front of the badge to adjust the speed of the LED "scanning".
- If you hold down the pushbutton for a couple of seconds, the LEDs will go into "high-beam" mode and become even brighter. This will drain the battery slightly faster, though.
- Switch off the battery pack if you want to hide better in the dark.
Assembly Instructions
Listed here are the parts in each kit, along with the resistor color codes for resistors, and the position of each part on the board:
- (9) 100Ω resistor (Brown-Black-Brown-Gold) → R1,R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R7,R8,R9
- (1) 1.8KΩ resistor (Brown-White-Red-Gold) → R11
- (2) 68Ω resistor (Blue-Grey-Black-Gold-Brown) → R12,R13
- (1) 10KΩ resistor (Brown-Black-Orange-Gold) → R14
- (1) 20Ω resistor (Red-Black-Black-Gold-Brown) → R16
- (2) 1N5817 Schottky diode → D10,Q1
- (1) 1N29A Zener diode → D11
- (2) 18pF capacitor → C1,C2
- (1) 0.1µF capacitor → C3
- (1) crystal → X1
- (1) momentary push-button switch → S1
- (1) USB type-A plug → I2
- (9) LED → D1,D2,D3,D4,D5,D6,D7,D8,D9
- (1) battery holder → J1
- (1) IC socket → U1
- (1) ATTiny 4313-PU → socketed
Step 1 - LED resistors
Put 9 100Ω resistors into R1-R9.
Step 2 - rear resistor
Put the 1.8KΩ resistor into R11 (on the back of the board).
Step 3 - USB resistors
Put 2 68Ω resistors into R12 and R13.
Step 4 - front resistor
Put the 10KΩ resistor into R14.
(Ignore R15 -- nothing will be going into this spot.)
Step 5 - rear resistor 2
Put the 20Ω resistor into R16.
Step 6 - rear Schottky diode
Put 1 1N5817 Schottky diode into D10. Diodes are picky about the direction they are facing -- be sure to line up the silver band on the diode with the band on the board's image (as shown in the picture).
Step 7 - front Schottky diode
Put 1 1N5817 Schottky diode into Q1. This one can get very tricky since the diode isn't properly sized for this hole. It's not super-clear in the picture, but you will need to carefully feed the silver-banded side of the diode toward the "3" hole of Q1, and the other side through the "1" hole. If the diode just won't go through, then you can try sanding the leads down a bit with some sandpaper to make it fit.
Step 8 - rear Zener diode
Put the 1N29A Zener diode into D11. Again, make sure the brown-banded side lines up with the band on the board's image.
Step 9 - crystal capacitors
Put 2 18pF capacitors into C1 and C2.
Step 10 - power capacitor
Put the 0.1µF capacitor in C3.
Step 11 - crystal
Put the crystal into X1.
Step 12 - button
Put the momentary push-button switch into S1. The switch has a particular orientation, so do not force it if it doesn't seem to fit easily the first time -- rotate it 90 degrees and try again.
Step 13 - socket
Put the IC socket into U1. Make sure that the "dimple" (seen on the right side of the socket in the photo) lines up with the dimple on the board image.
You will also place the USB type-A plug into I2. You will want to solder the two posts on the outside of the connector first, then the four smaller pins in the middle. Even though it's kind of tricky, try to keep it flush with the board while soldering it on. Sometimes a bit of tape can help keep it in place enough to solder it on.
Step 14 - LEDs
Put 9 LEDs into D1-D9. The "D" in "LED" stands for "Diode", so like all other diodes, you will also need to make sure they are facing in the correct direction. Make sure that the shorter leg of the diode goes through the "K" hole.
Avoid re-soldering headaches and remember to put the short lead through the "K" hole.
Step 15 - battery holder
Put the battery holder leads into J1. The wires are supposed to come up the back of the board through the holes, and then down again into the solder pads, as illustrated, to provide for some strain relief. You can also cross them as shown for a little extra strain relief. Make sure that the red wire of the battery holder goes into the hole marked with a "+".
Step 16 - ATTiny
Finally, put the ATTiny 4813-PU IC into the IC socket in U1. The legs on the chip come from the factory sticking out too wide to insert into the socket, so first you will need to CAREFULLY flex them inward, toward the middle of the chip, until it looks like it will fit in the socket cleanly. Before you push it in, you will need to line the dimple on the edge of the chip -- NOT THE CIRCLE SIDE -- toward the dimple on the IC socket.
Step 17 - power on!
Put in three AAA batteries and turn on the switch on the battery pack. You should see your LEDs light up (possibly after a bit of delay -- be patient). Congratulations on completing the solder badge challenge! Wear your swanky badge proudly.
Change the Code!
You will need an AVR programmer, the ability to carefully remove the ATTiny4313 chip from the socket, and AVR-GCC and avrdude, or Atmel Studio.
More to come!