3D Printer: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Electronics]]
[[Category:Electronics Tools]]
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]
[[Category:Requires Maintenance]]
All Hands Active has two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers and a Replicator. The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state so aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. As of 11/02/14, Creamcheese is in the process of being upgraded, it works except for a sticky Z axis. Blackbottom is for experimental use, and now has the same Ramps1.4/Arduino board as Creamcheese.
{{Incomplete}}


==Creating a 3D Model==
AHA currently has four 3D printers.
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.


*Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]
Ender 3 printers -
** Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]
*[[Ender 3 - Bert]]
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]
*[[Ender 3 - Ernie]]
*Blender - [http://blender.org]
*[[Ender 3 v2 - Oscar]]
*Rhyno


==File Types==
Ender 5 printer
===STL===
*[[Ender 5 Plus - Big Bird]]
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.
====How to fix an STL====
You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.


The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.
All of the printers except Oscar are set up to print via [https://octoprint.org/ OctoPrint]. The links to access OctoPrint are available on each of the printers webpages. The Ender 3 printers all use the same [https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/ PrusaSlicer] config - [[:File:PrusaSlicer config bundle.ini]] (Current as of {{#dateformat: 2023-12-13}}). The Ender 5 uses the profile [[:File:Ender 5.ini]]. These profiles are installed on the dedicated 3D printing computer (located to the left of the 3D printers), but you may download these profiles and access OctoPrint from your own computer while in the space.


You can also try these awesome pieces of software:
As of {{#dateformat: 2024-09-03}}, only [[Ender 3 - Bert|Bert]] and [[Ender 3 - Ernie|Ernie]] are in service.
*MeshMixer
*MeshLab
*NetFabb Basic
*blender


===GCODE===
==Operation==
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object
===S3G/X3G===
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file.


==Jargon==
==== Prerequisites ====
* Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.
You will need:
* Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it.
* Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has
* Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object
* Filament - The plastic fed into the printer
* Extruder - The portion of a printer which
* Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg
* Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software


==Creamcheese Cupcake==
* An STI file of what you'd like to print, or pre-sliced GCODE file using the proper printer profile on a slicer such as [https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer PrusaSlicer]
* Filament, or use one of our own.


===Current Status===
=== Check printer is not in use ===
# 11/2/2014 - ACME threaded rods are installed, need to cut out a new Z stage. Current stage is binding against the rods.
Ensure that nothing is currently being printed, and that the bed is clear.
# 10/4/2014 - New config files from Nick provide excellent prints using latest Slic3r version.
# 2/2/2014 - New config files created by Josh provide better looking prints!
# 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!
# 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!
# 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder
## Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms.
## Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)
# 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear
# 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler.
# 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added
# 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped.
# 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted
## One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped.
# 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced
# 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.
## Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend


===This bots history===
This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder.


DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!
=== Clean the bed ===


*6/10 - Bot recieved
If the bed is not clean, you'll want to clear it off. If there is an existing print, carefully remove a print. This is likely another member's print, so please set it carefully aside and take note of where you put it so they can find it when they come to pick it up.
*7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end
*1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.
*5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder
*7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu
*10/12 - Accelerated
*11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run
*11/13 - New hot end.
*12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers


===Things this bot has:===
=== Remove existing filament from the printer===
*RepRap Ramps with Pololu stepper drivers x 4
*[http://store.makerbot.com/nema-17-cork-gasket-pack.html NEMA 17 Cork Gaskets] - Cuts down on noise
*[http://daid2.mine.nu/~daid/marlin_build/index.php Marlin firmware]
*[http://thingiverse.com/thing:7129 MiseryPusher Extruder]
*Custom designed [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23000 toolhead holder]
*[http://thingiverse.com/derivative:9549 Mendel X and Y low rider Axis]
*[http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-cupcake-heated-build-platform-v2-0.html MB Heated Build Platform]
*Makergear Groovemount insulator and heatercore hot end!
*.35MM nozzle.
*Kysan 13.6:1 Stepper Motor (the same that Makergear.com sells)


===What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 10/04/14!)===
If you're content with the existing filament, you can skip the next two steps.
* Get [https://github.com/kliment/Printrun Printrun], it comes with pronterface. Grab the newest tested with August 2014 version.
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental] -- Updated 10/04/14
* Get the Creamcheese config files from here: [http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory.
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\
** Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r
*** You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear
* In Pronterface (printrun) options set the following
** Baudrate: 115200
** Builtemp_abs: 110
** Build_dimension: 100x100x100-50-50+0
** temperature_abs: 215
** xy_feedrate: 3000
** z_feedrate: 555


===Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface===
=== Pick a filament ===
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer.
[[http://goo.gl/dS0RT | Printer Checklist]]


* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSNJgdNbNzqCWaeRJlQMjoo4mEt8Ea2uV YouTube video instructions]
We can print PLA and PETG filament types in our shop. We cannot print ABS as we do not have enclosures on our printers.  


* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)
=== Load the filament ===
* Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese
* Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.
* Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.
* Press export GCode.
* Save the result.
* Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.
* Load your newly generated GCode file
* Preheat platform to 110 and head to 215c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.
* Once at temp, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.
* Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center
* Press print.
* Bot will check platform temp and raise it if needed.
* Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.
* When at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.
* If it doesn't stick, hit pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. If done incorrectly it can damage the heated print bed.
* After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.


===Changing Filament===
to be expanded
Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.


Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.
==== Level the bed ====


===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===
==== Begin the print ====
The firmware for the 3D printer is included with the zip file of configurations found here:
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14


The configuration.h file in the marlin directory includes all the settings neccessary to run Creamcheese as it is currently tuned and configured.
==== Watch the first few layers ====


If you are curious how we've done the calculations for running it or if you wanted to try out Creamcheese using Skeinforge instead of slic3r, we've done some work in the past. You can find it documented here:
==== Wait. And wait. And Wait. ====
[[3D_Printer:Creamcheese:Config|Experimental Config]]


Repetier-Host: A very limited trial was done using repetier host. The bot heated successfully and moved. Slic3r also picked up the config files provided in our zip. We did not try printing and found repetier to be rather resource intensive compared to pronterface. This was performed on 01/04/14 by Tyler W.
==== Remove the print from the print bed ====


===Contact===
==== Remove and repackage the filament ====
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!
*Tyler W.
*Michael Sh.
*Josh W.


==BlackBottom Cupcake==
===This bots history===
November 2014, installed Ramps1.4/Arduino board. Firmware loaded. New controller cannot move x-y stage, too much drag with original hardware. Need to print a lowrider x-y stage similar to what is installed on Creamcheese.


This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!


This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack.
== Historical Content ==


At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!
'''NOTE: most of this information is out of date.  I dumped class notes in here for the time being -- they are rough guidelines for how to run the machines, but they are missing a lot of details.''' 


It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12
Notes from the 3D printer class: 


===Things this bot has:===
History:  
*Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder
*Not a new technology -- early 3d printers existed in the '80s.
*Mk6 Stepstruder
*Acrylic Platform
*.40MM Nozzle
*Sailfish Firmware.


===What do I need to run Blackbottom?=== (this section deprecated)
Types of printing:
* Get ReplicatorG 0040 Sailfish edition (MUST BE THIS VERSION!) - [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084 Sailfish Replicatorg]/
*FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) / FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) -- "typical" 3d printers
* Get [http://slic3r.org/ Slic3r 1.2.0 Experimental]
*SLA (stereolithography) / DLP (Digital Light Processing) -- i.e. resin printers
* Get the Blackbottom config files from here:
*SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) / SLM (Selective Laser Melting) -- powdered materials melted with a laser.  Can be used for metal parts;  not consumer-level tech yet.
[http://novaslp.net/download/makerbot/AHAMakerbotSettings141021.zip Tyler's repository of cool stuff!] - Updated 10/04/14
* Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory
* Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory.  
** Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)
** OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)
** Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\


===How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?=== (this section depricated)
Software:
Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start:
*3D models are saved in STL
Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)
*Machines are controlled with GCODE
*Slicers translate STL models into lines of GCODE
*Cura, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Simplify3d are a few slicers
* Lots of parameters you can tune or adjust. Most are beyond the scope of this class, or open to experimentation.  However, some parameters will frequently be changed to fit your needs, such as brims/skirts/rafts, layer height, shell thickness, infill %, infill type, support materials, bed and nozzle temperatures, and feed rates.


* Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r
Machine anatomy: go over the major parts
* File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r
* Pick build to file
* Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.
* Put the SD card in the bot
* In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.
* Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.
* Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)
* Close control panel and pick build from file.
* Choose your .x3g file from the list.
* If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!
* After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.


To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.
Filament types: go over some common materials


===Issues?=== (this section depricated)
Machine operation:
If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!
*Always clean the UNHEATED print bed of old filament bits and dust using a sturdy paper towel or clean, lint-free cloth with 90% isopropyl alcohol on it.  Try to avoid touching the bed after you clean it.


(**** begin initilization commands ****)
*Leveling the bed:
M73 P0 (enable build progress)
**You will want to do this before every print.
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0)
**Make sure bed is heated to printing temperature before leveling
M104 S220 T0
**One printer has a auto-leveling probe (untested), and the other one you will need to use the "paper method".  (Demonstrate the paper method using the octoprint bed leveling helper plugin)
M109 S110 T0
M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up)
(**** end initilization commands ****)


(**** begin final commands ****)
* Loading filament:
M73 P100 (end  build progress )
**Move print head a fair distance from the bed
M104 S0
**Remove from the desiccant zipper bag.  After removing the spool, always re-seal the bag to keep the desiccant packet as dry as possible.
G91
** Check the end of the filament when you pull it out of the bag. Make sure it's secured in the side of the spool. If it's not, you will need to try your best to ensure it isn't crossing under another loop to prevent a print failure.
G1 Z10.0 F2100.0
** Feed filament in from the top, push on the spring lever to allow it to be inserted easily.  Continue to push the filament in until the color changes to the new filament's color, or you get a decent flow from the nozzle.
G90
(**** end final commands ****)


===Contact===
* Printing:
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!
**Load the model you want, slice it, and send it to the printer
*Tyler W.
**Carefully monitor the first layer or two to make sure it has good adhesion
*Josh W.
**First layer nozzle height should be close enough to slightly squish the extruded filament into an "oval" profile.  It should not be too far away so as to drop it onto the bed, or so close that it flattens the filament entirely.
*Michael Sh.
**When the print is finished, wait until the bed has cooled completely before trying to remove it -- it should come off more easily when cool.  Try to avoid scraping it off, which can gouge the bed.


== Tobeca ==
*Unloading filament:
**Always unload and store filament in its desiccant zipper bag when you're done printing for the day.  If left out, it will begin to absorb moisture from the air, which will cause it to become unusable over time.
**Make sure the print head is heated to the working temperature.
**Push the spring lever in and pull the filament out.  If you encounter any resistance, make sure the nozzle is at the right temperature.
** When unloading the filament, be sure to capture and tuck the loose end securely into the edge of the spool.  If you let it flop loose, it's very likely that it will end up crossing under an adjacent loop, which will cause filament feed issues during its next use!


===Current Status===
*Finishing up:
# 02/27/2014 Bot seems to be working fine! Frank says it needs new firmware for the extruder fan to run, and some other minor tweaks.  
**Always ensure the nozzle heater, bed heater, and print cooling fan is turned off before leaving! The hot-end fan will always remain on.


===This bot's history===
Questions? Reach out to board@allhandsactive.org, #3dprinting or #Operations on Matrix.
This machine was built by Frank. Build log here: http://dieselpoweredrobotics.com/?page_id=240


Some info on the Tobeca bot:
As of 8/24/18:  
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:147011
*[[Ender 3 - Bert]] is available to print
http://www.tobeca.fr/en/produits-2/tobeca/
*[[Ender 3 - Ernie]] is available to print
https://github.com/pyroboynroses/Tobeca




===Things this bot has:===
Older/obsolete information follows, safe to ignore for the most part:
* Printrboard (http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard)
* Direct drive extruder unlike the one in standard tobeca (link?)
* Anything else?


===What do I need to run Tobeca? (UPDATED 02/28/2014!)===
==Creating a 3D Model ==
Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.


* Get [http://www.repetier.com/download/ Repetier host], it comes with slic3r.
* Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make]
* Get the tobeca config files from here: (frank, link?)
**Skethcup STL Plugin - [http://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/sketchup-stl]
* In Repetier, go to printer settings and set the following:  
*OpenSCAD - [http://openscad.org]
** Under connection:  
*Blender - [http://blender.org]
*** Baudrate 115200
*Rhino3D - [https://www.rhino3d.com/6]
*** COM port: whichever one says usbmodem and then some numbers
*OnShape - [https://www.onshape.com]
** Under Dimension:
*FreeCAD - [https://www.freecadweb.org]
*** Home X: x = 0
*Fusion360 - [https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal]
*** Home Y: y = 0
3D model database
*** Home Z: z min
*Yobi3D - [http://www.yobi3d.com Free 3D model search engine]
*** Print area width: 180
*Thingiverse - [http://www.thingiverse.com]
*** Print area length: 120
*** Print area height: 180
* Repetier is annoying and won't save settings if you don't leave the text box you put them into. So click into one of the other text boxes, and then hit Apply and Ok.  
* Now you should be able to connect to the printer!


=== IMPORTANT THINGS ===
==File Types==
* Currently no SD card printing, so you must print tethered. Set your computer to not go to sleep or the print will stop!
==='''''STL'''''===
* No X and Y endstops, so set home position correctly (front left of platform) and make sure your settings under Dimension are correct or you will jam the printer into itself, which might break things.  
The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file that has GCODE to describe the tool head movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only includes one solid water-tight object. Missing faces, open vertices, and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of these issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals), and MeshLab's repair mode.
* If something scary is going on, hit the power button first and worry about what's going on second.  
====How to fix an STL====
You've got holes or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [http://cloud.netfabb.com/]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals, and no holes to get a good print.


===Printing with Slic3r and Repetier===
The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.
-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer. (NEED CHECKLIST HERE)


* Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program).
You can also try these awesome pieces of software:  
* Prep your build surface. Frank recommends a thin later of glue stick. Another common option is painter's tape. If you use tape, flip the glass platform (it's attached by binder clip) and tape it on the clean non-gluey side.
*MeshMixer
* Start Repetier and preheat platform to 55 and head to 225.
*MeshLab
* Home the printer: first, hit the Home button by the Z axis to home it against the Z endstop. Hit Stop Motors, move the X gantry allt he way to the right and adjust the z axis on the right side (by twisting the threaded rod) until the extruder is ''just'' above the print bed (you should not see a gap). Now move the X axis all the way to the left and adjust the left Z axis until it is also ''just'' above the print bed. Now push the platform as far back as it will go without forcing. The extruder should now be all the way on the left of the platform, pretty far in front (but not all the way in front, and nearly touching the platform). Hit Set Home.
*NetFabb Basic
* While it is still preheating, click on the slicer tab, select slic3r, and click the configure button. Wait for slic3r to launch. Now, load tobeca.ini settings in Slic3r (File->Load Config). You will need to click the little disk button next to the setting name drop down and save it as tobeca for print settings, filament settings, and printer settings. It's weird that we have to do this but this makes the settings visible to Repetier.
*blender
* Adjust anything else in Slic3r settings if you know what you're doing. Otherwise the tobeca.ini defaults should be fine. Things you might want to consider changing: infill (increase to 0.5 or higher for structural parts), support (if you have big overhangs).
* Grab a caliper and measure your filament in a few places. Average the diameters from the measurements and put them into the Diameter box under Filament Settings. Getting this right will contribute a lot to good prints.
* Now select tobeca from the dropdowns in the slicer tab: Print Settings, Printer Settings and Extruder 1 Settings.
* By now we should be at temp. Click on the print panel, and verify that both extruder and heated bed are at temp. Raise the head by clicking the 10 button on the Z axis. Hit the extrude button by the extruder settings (should be set at 10mm). If the extruder is skipping or not extruding, raise the temperature to 230. '''Do not raise the temperature above 230: the extruder is rated to 235 but tends to underreport temperature'''. If it is still not extruding well at 230, you are using old or crappy ABS, try different ones (the white and black stuff in the shop are the most ancient and may create problems).
* Set Speed Multiply to 50% to start. You can adjust this during the print.
* Set Flow Multiply to 100% to start. You can (but probably don't have to) adjust this during the print.
* Go to the Object Placement tab and click Add STL file. Pick your STL file now. You can select it in the selector box on the right, and click the button with the truck on the left to move it manually -- a good idea is to position it fairly close to the origin in the front left corner, but leave enough room for a skirt (~1cm or half an inch).
* Hit Slice with Slic3r. If all went well you should now be in the G-Code tab. You can see the projected path the printer will take.
* Before you print, double check:
** On the print tab, are X, Y and Z at zero?
** On the print tab, is your Speed Multiply at 50% and Flow Multiply at 100%?
** On the Slicer tab, is tobeca selected in the first three dropdowns?
** Is your object placed near the front left of the build area?
* Get ready to adjust the Z height while the skirt is printing. During the skirt, you will want to adjust the Z axis slightly on both sides until it's sticking properly. You don't want a completely round noodle (this won't stick), but don't want a complete smear on the platform. You want to be in between. Ready? Now, hit print.
* If everything's going well, you can try to crank up the speed above 50%. Presently, it's not recommended to go much above X% (Frank?) because the belts are not tight enough and will slip.
* If your layers are too fat and splooshy, turn down Flow Multiply slightly (1-2%). If your layers are thin and not extruding well, make sure your filament is good, your temp is high enough, and then turn up Flow Multply slightly (1-2%). Also this means you didn't measure your filament accurately enough or your filament is super inconsistent, try better next time :).
* After finish, you can let print cool on platform or take off the binder clip and pick up the glass platform so it cools faster. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If you used glue stick, you might want to wash the bottom.


===Changing Filament===
==='''''GCODE'''''===
Connect to the printer using Repetier. Heat the extruder to at least 200C, ideally 225C (for ABS) -- lower for other materials. Pull firmly and the filament should come right out.  
This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer on how to move to produce the final object
==='''''S3G/X3G''''' ===
Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software


Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the hole in the extruder. You will need to press firmly but don't keep pressing if it won't go and make sure it's actually going into the hot end. You shouldn't need to adjust the tension thumb screw, as it is sprung. Using Repetier, run the extruder forward until filament comes out. If you are changing materials or you don't want to get the dregs of the old color, continue to run it until the noodle changes to the new material you inserted.
==Jargon==
 
*Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at its maximum by the size of the nozzle and at its minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.
===Folding and Unfolding Tobeca===
*Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it.
To set up Tobeca for action, you need to take out the gantry and stick the Z motors in their little holders on the sides. Then insert the thumb screws and tighten. There should be a USB cable in there ready to go. The power switch should be jumpered into pins 4 left and 8 right (is that correct) on the ATX connector.
*Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has
 
*Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object
To fold Tobeca into its home, first raise the Z axis pretty high (this is easier to do when the printer is on). Next, take out the side thumbscrews, gently lift out the whole Z stage, and lay it in its supports. It might be a tight fit. Then I have no idea what to do because it seems to hit the power supply, help!
*Filament - The plastic fed into the printer
 
*Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.
===Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration===
*Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file
Document everything you do!
* Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg
 
*Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer
===Contact===
* OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software
Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!
 
*Frank A.
*Michael Sh.
 
==Waynestock==
 
This is a very large delta printer (over 10 cubic feet of build volume) with a new heated bed design and some other new tricks. When we finally finish it, it should be among the biggest deltas and among the fastest DIY printers out there. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it is very hard for people without mechanical design background to design and build such a device. We're working on it!
 
===This Bot's History===
The frame is designed and fabricated, motors mounted, heated build platform designed and built. Printed universal joints seeing too much tension from our huge delta geometry and snapping along shear lines, need redesign or sturdier print.  
 
===Want to help?===
If you want to help, grab a tool and try to put a piece of the design together!
 
* (done!) Motor mounts - Pete printed these but the motors need to be mounted and they must be attached to bottom of the frame
*Electronics mount - The relays, arduino and stepper drivers need to be mounted somewhere along with the power supply.
*Heated bed - The wire is run but needs to be safely connected with the ceramic connectors to the relays that are controlled by the arduino
*(in progress!) Arms! The arms are finished and the ends must be press fit on them.
*U joints - The inner pieces to all the U joints need to be reprinted in better quality. The existing prints had lots of slop in them after sanding and drilling the previous poor prints.
*(in progress!) Motor wiring - The motors need to be wired and heat shrinked. Nick bought the connectors but they haven't been added. One of the wires has all connections for each pole of the motor labeled. The coloring on the others is the same. The center wire on each pole doesn't need to be used. This converts a 6 wire stepper to a 4 wire.
*(in progress!) Tighten and square frame
*Mount bed somehow squarely to the printer base.
*Redesign belt tensioner mount
*Document and clean up the OpenSCAD 3D Model file. Contact Nick or Tyler for this file!
*Extruder - Lots of the parts have been printed, follow misery pusher instructions and assemble.
*Extruder tube mount - The extruder when complete needs to have an attachment mounted to the bottom to connect to the feed tube. We printed one of these already
*Extruder mount - The extruder needs to be mounted to the top electronics platform. Ideally we need room for 2-3 extruders here.
*Hot end - We need to take inventory of parts we have, decide what needs to be ordered and get it setup. Mount for 1 hot end has been lasered and will connect to the center carriage. The tube mount needs to be cleaned up and also attached here
*Firmware - Take the cupcake firmware, bring it to the modern version of Sailfish and enable the Delta option and begin configuration.
*Design and build table to bolt printer onto, or use the existing Ikea table.
===Contact===
 
Questions? Want to help us build or document it?
 
*Tyler W.
*Nick R.
*Nate Y.

Latest revision as of 05:35, 3 September 2024


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AHA currently has four 3D printers.

Ender 3 printers -

Ender 5 printer

All of the printers except Oscar are set up to print via OctoPrint. The links to access OctoPrint are available on each of the printers webpages. The Ender 3 printers all use the same PrusaSlicer config - File:PrusaSlicer config bundle.ini (Current as of 2023-12-13). The Ender 5 uses the profile File:Ender 5.ini. These profiles are installed on the dedicated 3D printing computer (located to the left of the 3D printers), but you may download these profiles and access OctoPrint from your own computer while in the space.

As of 2024-09-03, only Bert and Ernie are in service.

Operation

Prerequisites

You will need:

  • An STI file of what you'd like to print, or pre-sliced GCODE file using the proper printer profile on a slicer such as PrusaSlicer
  • Filament, or use one of our own.

Check printer is not in use

Ensure that nothing is currently being printed, and that the bed is clear.


Clean the bed

If the bed is not clean, you'll want to clear it off. If there is an existing print, carefully remove a print. This is likely another member's print, so please set it carefully aside and take note of where you put it so they can find it when they come to pick it up.

Remove existing filament from the printer

If you're content with the existing filament, you can skip the next two steps.

Pick a filament

We can print PLA and PETG filament types in our shop. We cannot print ABS as we do not have enclosures on our printers.

Load the filament

to be expanded

Level the bed

Begin the print

Watch the first few layers

Wait. And wait. And Wait.

Remove the print from the print bed

Remove and repackage the filament

Historical Content

NOTE: most of this information is out of date. I dumped class notes in here for the time being -- they are rough guidelines for how to run the machines, but they are missing a lot of details.

Notes from the 3D printer class:

History:

  • Not a new technology -- early 3d printers existed in the '80s.

Types of printing:

  • FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) / FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) -- "typical" 3d printers
  • SLA (stereolithography) / DLP (Digital Light Processing) -- i.e. resin printers
  • SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) / SLM (Selective Laser Melting) -- powdered materials melted with a laser. Can be used for metal parts; not consumer-level tech yet.

Software:

  • 3D models are saved in STL
  • Machines are controlled with GCODE
  • Slicers translate STL models into lines of GCODE
  • Cura, PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Simplify3d are a few slicers
  • Lots of parameters you can tune or adjust. Most are beyond the scope of this class, or open to experimentation. However, some parameters will frequently be changed to fit your needs, such as brims/skirts/rafts, layer height, shell thickness, infill %, infill type, support materials, bed and nozzle temperatures, and feed rates.

Machine anatomy: go over the major parts

Filament types: go over some common materials

Machine operation:

  • Always clean the UNHEATED print bed of old filament bits and dust using a sturdy paper towel or clean, lint-free cloth with 90% isopropyl alcohol on it. Try to avoid touching the bed after you clean it.
  • Leveling the bed:
    • You will want to do this before every print.
    • Make sure bed is heated to printing temperature before leveling
    • One printer has a auto-leveling probe (untested), and the other one you will need to use the "paper method". (Demonstrate the paper method using the octoprint bed leveling helper plugin)
  • Loading filament:
    • Move print head a fair distance from the bed
    • Remove from the desiccant zipper bag. After removing the spool, always re-seal the bag to keep the desiccant packet as dry as possible.
    • Check the end of the filament when you pull it out of the bag. Make sure it's secured in the side of the spool. If it's not, you will need to try your best to ensure it isn't crossing under another loop to prevent a print failure.
    • Feed filament in from the top, push on the spring lever to allow it to be inserted easily. Continue to push the filament in until the color changes to the new filament's color, or you get a decent flow from the nozzle.
  • Printing:
    • Load the model you want, slice it, and send it to the printer
    • Carefully monitor the first layer or two to make sure it has good adhesion
    • First layer nozzle height should be close enough to slightly squish the extruded filament into an "oval" profile. It should not be too far away so as to drop it onto the bed, or so close that it flattens the filament entirely.
    • When the print is finished, wait until the bed has cooled completely before trying to remove it -- it should come off more easily when cool. Try to avoid scraping it off, which can gouge the bed.
  • Unloading filament:
    • Always unload and store filament in its desiccant zipper bag when you're done printing for the day. If left out, it will begin to absorb moisture from the air, which will cause it to become unusable over time.
    • Make sure the print head is heated to the working temperature.
    • Push the spring lever in and pull the filament out. If you encounter any resistance, make sure the nozzle is at the right temperature.
    • When unloading the filament, be sure to capture and tuck the loose end securely into the edge of the spool. If you let it flop loose, it's very likely that it will end up crossing under an adjacent loop, which will cause filament feed issues during its next use!
  • Finishing up:
    • Always ensure the nozzle heater, bed heater, and print cooling fan is turned off before leaving! The hot-end fan will always remain on.

Questions? Reach out to board@allhandsactive.org, #3dprinting or #Operations on Matrix.


As of 8/24/18:


Older/obsolete information follows, safe to ignore for the most part:

Creating a 3D Model

Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.

  • Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [1]
    • Skethcup STL Plugin - [2]
  • OpenSCAD - [3]
  • Blender - [4]
  • Rhino3D - [5]
  • OnShape - [6]
  • FreeCAD - [7]
  • Fusion360 - [8]

3D model database

File Types

STL

The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file that has GCODE to describe the tool head movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only includes one solid water-tight object. Missing faces, open vertices, and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of these issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals), and MeshLab's repair mode.

How to fix an STL

You've got holes or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [10]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals, and no holes to get a good print.

The newest versions of Slic3r will automatically try to fix holes and other errors in your stl files. This can work, but make sure that your model hasn't changed dramatically before printing. Take a look at it in the 3d view.

You can also try these awesome pieces of software:

  • MeshMixer
  • MeshLab
  • NetFabb Basic
  • blender

GCODE

This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer on how to move to produce the final object

S3G/X3G

Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file. It can also be created with Makerbot's software

Jargon

  • Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at its maximum by the size of the nozzle and at its minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.
  • Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it.
  • Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has
  • Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object
  • Filament - The plastic fed into the printer
  • Extruder - The part responsible for filament melting and forming it into a continuous profile.
  • Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file
  • Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg
  • Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer
  • OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software
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