3D Printer

From All Hands Active Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search

All Hands Active has two Makerbot Industries Cupcake series 3D Printers and a Replicator. The cupcakes are both heavily modified from their original state so aside from the chassis saying Cupcake, refer to documentation shown below. As of 01/15/13 all printers are in a working state.

Creating a 3D Model

Lots of software exists to create models. As long as the software can export to STL file format, you can print your model. Check out the following software packages that we recommend.

  • Trimble (previously Google) Sketchup Make - [1]
    • Skethcup STL Plugin - [2]
  • OpenSCAD - [3]
  • Blender - [4]
  • Rhyno

File Types

STL

The slicing software needs your 3D model as an STL file before it can slice it. Slicing produces a file which has GCODE to describe the toolhead movements for each layer. It is important that your STL file only include one solid water tight object. Missing faces, open verticies and improper normal calculations will cause the slicer software to produce errors. You can fix some of this issues in an automated fashion by using NetFabb Basic, Blender (recalculate normals) and MeshLab's repair mode.

How to fix an STL

You've got holes, or inverted normals? You can fix this by hand, try Blender or Meshlab. For a quick fix either try netfabb basic on client or NetFabb cloud [5]. These can fix basic problems and possibly produce a better file. You need 1 shell, non-inverted normals and no holes to get a good print.

You can also try these awesome pieces of software:

  • MeshMixer
  • MeshLab
  • NetFabb Basic
  • blender

GCODE

This is a description of the tool path that is generated by a slicer. The file includes commands which instruct the printer how to move to produce the final object

S3G/X3G

Replicatorg converts a GCODE file into this reduced and compressed file type. This is equivalent to the GCODE but the smaller and easier to parse file type can be read off an SD card with less work. Use the build to SD card function in Replicatorg to produce this file.

Jargon

  • Layer Height - The size of each layer the printer produces. This is limited at it's maximum by the size of the nozzle and at it's minimum by the amount of plastic produced and how much stretching occurs.
  • Infill - The pattern and amount of plastic put inside the model to support it.
  • Shells - The number of solid outer layers the model has
  • Raft - A piece of plastic generated to stick to the print bed. This also includes support material for the object
  • Filament - The plastic fed into the printer
  • Extruder - The portion of a printer which
  • Slic3r - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file
  • Skeinforge - Produces a GCODE file from an STL file, built into Replicatorg
  • Replicatorg - Produces a S3G file from GCODE and controls the printer
  • OpenSCAD - 3D Solid Modeling software

Creamcheese Cupcake

Current Status

  1. 1/4/2014 - Working! Heater was replaced along with the extruder stepper driver. Frank assisted with tuning and all is now well in the world. Go print something!
  2. 12/19/2013 - Karen from Makergear shipped us a new 12V heater! Ours is 24v and can't be driven by the current bot hardware! This needs to be replaced before it works again!
  3. 12/12/2013 - Joshua from MakerGear says check resistance. ~4 Ohm = 12v V3b Extruder. ~14 Ohm = 24v V3b Extruder
    1. Ours is measuring right around ~16 Ohms.
    2. Awaiting feedback from Joshua (MakerGear)
  4. 12/04/2013 - Sounds like Extruder might not be correct version? Emailing MakerGear
  5. 12/01/2013 - Temps of extruder not reaching >195 deg C. Also taking significantly longer. Contacted Tyler.
  6. 12/01/2013 - HBP wire mount added
  7. 12/01/2013 - Wire from RAMPS board to Heater Core connector. Connection on our end was loose. Recrimped.
  8. 12/01/2013 - New MakerGear Extruder mounted
    1. One of the white temp. sensor wires fell out of connector, recrimped.
  9. 11/24/2013 - Sanguino board replaced
  10. 11/21/2013 - Dead! Heater core has melted out of the extruder barrel.
    1. Parts have been ordered, repairs will be made over the next week / weekend

This bots history

This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen3 Extruder.

DO NOT LEAVE THIS BOT PLUGGED IN WHEN NOT IN USE! If power supply is on, bot is on!

  • 6/10 - Bot recieved
  • 7/10 - Changed to makergear hot end
  • 1/11 - The X and Y axis were made a low rider and changed to be quiet and more accurate.
  • 5/12 - The DC extruder died during a 3D printing talk at Penguicon 2012. Switched to Stepper extruder
  • 7/12 - Replaced stepper drivers with Pololu
  • 10/12 - Accelerated
  • 11/12 - Converted to RAMPS motherboard. Use pronterface to run
  • 11/13 - New hot end.
  • 12/13 - New RAMPS and stepper drivers

Things this bot has:

What do I need to run Creamcheese? (UPDATED 01/15/13!)

  • Get Printrun, it comes with pronterface.
  • Get Slic3r 0.9.3
  • Get the Creamcheese config files from here: Tyler's repository of cool stuff! - Updated 01/15/13
  • Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory.
    • Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)
    • OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)
    • Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\
    • Windows XP: C:\Documents and Settings\edutainment\Application Data\Slic3r
      • You may have to run slic3r once before these directories appear

Printing with Slic3r and Pronterface

-- Please use this checklist when using the printer. It helps us track settings and walks you through using the printer. [| Printer Checklist]

  • Get a model in STL format ([Thingiverse.com] or cad program)
  • Start Slic3r and make sure Creamcheese settings are loaded Creamcheese, 3MM ABS, Creamcheese
  • Under Print Settings, change fill density and shells. We recommend .10 fill density and 2-3 shells.
  • Under platter drag your STL files into slic3r or use the Add button. Move things so they will fit.
  • Press export GCode.
  • Save the result.
  • Open Pronterface.py and connect to CreamCheese with baudrate 115000.
  • Load your newly generated GCode file
  • DO NOT HIT THE HOME BUTTONS AT ANY TIME! THE PRINTER DOES NOT HAVE END STOPS. IT WILL TRY TO JAM INTO THE SIDES
  • Preheat platform to 110 and head to 220c. Enable "watch" to see it rise.
  • Once at temp for a minute or so, raise the head (either manually or with button) and extrude a little bit of plastic to prime the extruder.
  • Clear plastic, lower head to just touching platform in the center
  • Press print.
  • Bot will check platform temp, raise it if needed.
  • Bot will check nozzle temp and raise it if needed.
  • When nozzle is at temp a count down will begin in the W:? from W:5 to W:1 and then print will begin.
  • If it doesn't stick, hick pause, re-position everything and hit restart in pronterface. It's also possible to put down blue painters tape, a bit of slurry on top of it, wet it with paint thinner and print on that. See a member for example before you try it yourself. Done incorrectly can damage the heated print bed.
  • After finish, let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming. If using slurry, you need to remove the painters tape first.

If the print goes too fast, the platform will jump around. Lower your max speeds in slic3r to compensate.

Changing Filament

Connect to the printer using Replicatorg and open the control panel. Heat the extruder up to 220c (for ABS) and the platform to 110c. When at temp, release the latch on the extruder (blue spring part) and pull the filament upward.

Take the new filament and using wire cutters make sure the end is flat. Feed it down the tube in the extruder and when at the bottom, fasten the latch. Using Replicatorg run the extruder forward until filament comes out. Continue to run it until the color changes to a solid color. Changing from dark to light filament requires significantly more time running the extruder forward to clean it out.

Experimenting with the 3D printer configuration

Experimental Config

Contact

Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!

  • Tyler W.
  • Michael Sh.
  • Josh W.

BlackBottom Cupcake

This bots history

This machine was confirmed working on December 19th 2013 by Tyler!

This machine started as a Cupcake with Gen3 electronics and Gen5 Extruder. The DC extruder was upgraded by Ox to a Gen5/6+ stepstruder. The bot originally was given a 3G5D board but it never worked well. As a result we did the ugly cable hack.

At some point Ox decided to donate this bot to AHA!

It was renamed from Ox's bot to BlackBottom Cupcake (alternate name for a creamcheese cupcake) on 7/1/12

Things this bot has:

  • Gen3 Electronics + Gen4 stepper for extruder
  • Mk6 Stepstruder
  • Acrylic Platform
  • .40MM Nozzle
  • Sailfish Firmware.

What do I need to run Blackbottom?

Tyler's repository of cool stuff! - Updated 01/15/13

  • Put the *.xml files in your replicatorg machines directory
  • Place the 3 directories (filament, printer, print) and their contents into the Slic3r config directory.
    • Linux: /home/user/.slic3r (hidden)
    • OSX: /Library/Application Support/Slic3r/ (Not tested)
    • Windows 7 : C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Slic3r\

How Do I run BlackBottom Cupcake?

Using Slic3r, alter settings and produce gcode file. Use the following config to start: Blackbottom - 3MM ABS - BlackBottom (These show up if your XML files are in the right place!)

  • Open ReplicatorG and connect to CreamCheese with machine type BlackBottom - Slic3r
  • File->Open and pick your newly generated GCode file from Slic3r
  • Pick build to file
  • Save the resulting .x3g to an SD card with a filename no longer than 7 characters.
  • Put the SD card in the bot
  • In ReplicatorG open tools->control panel.
  • Preheat the bot to 220. When it reaches temp, turn on the extruder until plastic comes out.
  • Clear nozzle and lower to center of platform only a very tiny (practically touching) bit above it. You can use the controls in the control panel to do this or manually move it. (If the Z axis moves up when you press down the Axis is reversed and settings need to be changed in ReplicatorG!)
  • Close control panel and pick build from file.
  • Choose your .x3g file from the list.
  • If print doesn't stick at start, hit cancel, clean platform and try again. You can adjust the Z height during the start of the print!
  • After finish let print cool on platform. When cool the print should remove easily without deforming.

To fix warping on corners it is advisable to first put down a layer of blue painters tape or masking tape on the non heated build platform.

Issues?

If the bot moves from the center of the platform when you start a print make sure you have the following start g code and end gcode in Slic3r!

(**** begin initilization commands ****) M73 P0 (enable build progress) G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 (You are now at 0,0,0,0) M104 S220 T0 M109 S110 T0 M6 T0 (Wait for tool to heat up) (**** end initilization commands ****)

(**** begin final commands ****) M73 P100 (end build progress ) M104 S0 G91 G1 Z10.0 F2100.0 G90 (**** end final commands ****)

Contact

Questions? Can you borrow it? Break something? Contact one of the following people!

  • Tyler W.
  • Josh W.
  • Michael Sh.

The Replicator

This Bots History

This bot was won by Backyard Brains and is for their use only. If you need to use it, contact a member of their staff or Tyler to setup a job for you.

How do I run the Replicator?

  • Grab the latest version of Replicatorg.
  • Slice using the Replicator Profile for the latest version of Skeinforge for the left or right extruder.
  • Build to SD Card
  • SD card into replicator
  • In replicator menu, level the platform
  • Preheat the head you wish to use.
  • Select file from SD Card.

If the Kapton tape is ripping, reapply two new pieces from the roll and smooth them as you put them on. It is best for the bed to be cold when you do this.

Waynestock

This Bots History

Retrieved from "https://wiki.allhandsactive.org/index.php?title=3D_Printer&oldid=2797"